How to sew an Invisible Zipper

inside: learn how to sew an invisible zipper with a concealed zipper foot. Create beautiful zippers with this sewing technique and special foot for your sewing machine.

I’ve sewn patterns that called for invisible zippers, and I’ve sewn them before, but I was never doing it quite right. About a year ago I finally got a concealed zipper foot for my machine and wow! has it made such a difference in my zipper sewing. Today I’m going to show you how to use a concealed zipper foot to sew an invisible zipper.

How to use an invisible zipper

Ok, confession time! I’ve been sewing almost all my life and I’ve sewed in hundreds (maybe thousands) of zippers over that time. But… until recently I’ve never used the special foot for invisible zippers! I’ve always just made it work with a regular zipper foot, but I’ve been missing out! The concealed zipper foot K has changed my zipper sewing life. I’m so excited to share with you today how easy it makes sewing an invisible zipper.

Today I’m going to show you how to sew an invisible zipper using the machine foot K using just scraps of fabric, but if you are making a specific project you can use the same techniques. The instructions that came with the foot also give instructions, but I always love real life photos.

I’m show this with the Brother foot/directions, but of course many brands sell this type of foot. The instructions should work with any machine and any invisible/concealed zipper foot.

Supplies and Tools:

• Fabric for practice or a pattern needing an invisible zipper
• Sewing Machine
• Brother sewing machine foot K {or whichever foot fits your machine}
• Fabric pen or other marking tool
• Invisible zipper
• (optional) interfacing tape to reinforce seam.

Start by finishing the raw edges of the fabric. This will be the same if you are making a project or just practicing. You can use a serger or sewing machine zig-zag to finish the raw edges.

How to sew an invisible zipper

Next, prep the zipper. This step isn’t 100% necessary, but it does make sewing easier. Using an iron on the wrong side of the zipper, press the teeth open. Move quickly so as to not melt the teeth. This will help you sew closer to the teeth making the zipper even more concealed.

Now take your fabric and mark about ¾” down from the top. If you are making a specific project using a pattern it may tell you exactly how far down to start the zipper. Use a fabric pen to mark this distance.

You can also use your fabric pen to mark the seam allowance on the sides as well. I will be sewing my zipper ⅜” from the edge of the fabric. Adjust according to your pattern. NOTE: if you are sewing the zipper on delicate/knit fabric you can also add interfacing tape along this edge where you will sew to reinforce the seam and zipper.

Unzip the zipper and line up the top zipper stop with the mark you placed at the top of the fabric. This is where the zipper pull will stop when zipped. Place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the fabric. The zipper teeth should be facing away from the edge of the fabric. Pin zipper in place.

In addition to lining up at the top, you also need to line the teeth up on the seam allowance markings on the side as well. Place the zipper teeth just to the fabric side of the marking line. 

How to use an concealed zipper foot

Change out your machine foot. I removed my sewing foot and put the K foot on my sewing machine.

Because this foot just has a small hole in the middle for the needle you will need to make sure your machine is set to a middle straight stitch.

Place the zipper and fabric under the foot. The bar in the middle of the K foot should rest right on the inside edge of the zipper teeth. This will allow your needle to sew very close to the teeth without catching any of the teeth in the seam. 

Sew down the zipper keeping the zipper at the desired seam allowance. NOTE: if you have slippery fabric you can baste with a regular sewing foot and straight stitch in the middle of the zipper tape before sewing with the concealed zipper foot right on the edge.

When you get to the bottom of the zipper, sew as close to the bottom as you can. Then backstitch to end the seam.

This is how your zipper should look now. When you flip the zipper to the back  it should look like this. Now it’s time to sew the other side of the zipper.

Place the second side of the zipper right sides together to the other edge of the fabric. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing away from the edge of the fabric.

The zipper teeth will be on the opposite side of the sewing foot bar when you sew this other side of the zipper. Repeat the sewing process as described above on this side of the zipper.

When you finished this side you can now zip up the zipper and check out your handy work! When zipped up the actual zipper should be concealed and invisible.

When you zip the zipper up all the way the top should line up just like you marked before sewing.

Before sewing the bottom of my seam I gave the zipper a quick press with an iron. Make sure the iron doesn’t touch the actual zipper teeth.

Now let’s do the final step and finish the seam below the zipper. At the bottom of the zipper, move the extra zip tape out of the way. Pin or clip the fabric below the zipper at your seam allowance.

Using a regular sewing foot again, sew with a straight stitch from where the stitching ended on your zipper, to the bottom of the fabric. Keep the zipper out of the way.

Now you can see how my seam goes all the way to the end of the fabric. On the inside of the project you can now trim some of the extra zipper if desired.

It’s so pretty to zip it up and down and watch the zipper disappear. The Machine foot K makes sewing a concealed zipper like this a breeze. I have a women’s romper pattern that I plan to make soon and it needs an invisible zipper. No more faking it for me!

What is the difference between a concealed zipper and an invisible zipper

Nothing! {haha} Just the name that is used. I’ve always called it an invisible zipper and invisible zipper foot, but if you look online you can find it by both names and it’s actually the same thing. You’ll find products and info using both search terms. Hopefully this tutorial made you excited to try a real concealed foot, especially if you’ve been faking it like me!