Five Ways to Gather Fabric

inside: Learn five ways to gather fabric. Gathering techniques for all types of fabrics and common mistakes and issues when gathering.

** post newly updated 7/2021**

I’m so excited to be sharing this post today… I’ve been thinking about putting something like this together for a while now because I often get asked about this particular technique.  Many of my sewing tutorials have a “gather fabric” in the instructions…. Today I’ve put together instructions with five ways to gather fabric to teach you all you need to know about gathering… and when to use each various kind. I’ve also added a section on problems and common issues when gathering.

Five ways to gather fabric

The video imbedded in this post will show you all these gathering methods in action. If you cannot view the video try a different browser or disable your ad blocker to view the video.

As seen in the photo above here are the following methods that will be covered in this tutorial post today.

• 1. Gathering on a Serger machine with tight tension
• 2. Gathering with a chord
• 3. Gathering on a sewing machine with tight tension
• 4. Single basting stitch gather
• 5. Double basting stitch gather {most traditional}

Tips for gathering fabric –

1. Use different color thread for the top and bobbin thread so you can easily identify the bobbin thread to pull when gathering.
2. Test a gathering method on a scrap of fabric to test if it will work for that fabric before sewing the whole project.

Alright, let’s take a closer look at each one…

first: Gathering on a serger sewing machine is great when you don’t need an exact gather… This gathering is done by adjusting the settings on your machine, then just feeding the fabric though. The machine automatically gathers the fabric. I’ve used this when gathering the tulle layer of the cotton and tulle skirt.

You can have some control by adjusting the settings, but if you need certain measurements, this is not the best option. Machine settings: Differential Feed Set at biggest number {mine was 2} Length Set to biggest number {mine was 4} with these settings my fabric started at 36″ and gathered to 19″

 second: The gathering with a cord method is great for thick or heavy fabric. Often your threads will keep breaking when using method 4 or 5 listed above if the fabric is too heavy. This is one way to still get gathers.

With a wide Zig Zag set your sewing machine to width 6 length 5

Place a cord or string about 1/3 inch from the top of your fabric and sew the zig zag over the top. Be careful to NOT sew into the actual cord. You will want this to be able to slip through the stitches and if the needle sticks it, it will be stuck.

When you get to the end hold the stitches in one hand and pull the cord {blue here} with the other hand. This will cause the fabric under the first hand to gather.

Continuing pulling until fabric is the length desired. Smooth out the gathers and then use a basting stitch to hold the gathers in place. Remove the cord and continue with pattern. I would use this when gathering denim or canvas.

Third: This one is very much like the first, only it’s done on a normal sewing machine. It works best with light fabrics. I also use it when gathering streamers or party paper.

Four: For this method adjust your machine settings to Length 5 Tension 8/9 {more will make it tighter gather, lower will be less} Again this works great if you don’t need your fabric to end up an exact length and just want loads and loads of easy gathers! My fabric went from 36″ to 8″ in seconds with this method. I also love it because the gathers are so even!

Method four is a take on the traditional gathering method, but it’s just a bit quicker! This is perfect for light fabric like chiffon or tulle.

Set your stitch length to the longest it will go, mine was 5. Stitch this long basting stitch about 1/3″ from the top.  DO not backstitch at either end and leave long thread tails. Find the bobbin thread {the bottom one} and pull only that thread. Use the other hand to hold the fabric.

Pull the gathers until the fabric is the correct length. Tie your threads at both ends so the gathering will stay. Using this method is tricky, the single thread is more likely to break, so be careful when pulling the gathers.

Five: And finally, the most traditional of all the gathering options. This is the same as four, only you add a second basting line before you pull the strings. You can also add a third row of stitches for the most precise gathers possible. Again, DO NOT back stitch and make sure to leave long thread tails for pulling.

Make sure when you add the second line of stitches that you DO NOT cross the thread. They won’t pull properly if crosses. The two lines of stitches must be parallel.

Once you have your two lines, find the bottom bobbin thread and grab only those two threads.

Pull the threads, while holding the fabric…

The gathers will bunch right at the edge… use your fingers to smooth out the gathers until they are even. Tie the threads at each end to hold the gathering.

OKay… that’s it! Now, you tell me… did I miss any? What’s your favorite go to way to gather your fabric when you are sewing?

Possible problems when gathering-

1. Threads break when pulled.
   • Make sure threads aren’t crossed
   • Add another row of stitches
   • Try another method of gathering
   • Check that thread is new
2. Threads do not pull
   • Make sure threads aren’t crossed
   • Make sure you are pulling the bobbin thread
   • Did you back stitch on one or both ends of the thread?

Now… here are a few projects you could make with these gathering techniques!

Baby/Toddler skirt with Free Pattern.

Summer Skirt for Women

Baby Onesie Dress tutorial