I have been working on how to hem stretch fabric since I started sewing for my kids. Since knit is MY FAVORITE! Today I’m going to share a few years worth of trial and error in one simple video tutorial. Several years ago when I really started sewing a lot for my kids I fell in love with knits, LOVE sewing with knit fabric! BUT, for awhile I had a hard time top-stitching and hemming my clothes. I used a zig-zag stitch for awhile, and that works for the stretch, but the looks wasn’t as professional as I would like. SO… I tried out a few things… and found the perfect knit hem.. Last year I got a Coverstitch machine and even more options for hemming stretch fabric became available to me. This post will discuss sewing with both a “normal” sewing machine and a coverstitch machine. Both have great options for hemming stretch fabric.
How to Hem Stretch Fabric –
I sew so many clothes for my kids from knit fabric. I found that even with some of my very first projects {see these pjs here} I struggled with the finishing. I didn’t mind using my sewing machine zig-zag stitch for the inside seams but the hems and necklines I wasn’t pleased with. I sewed for many many years with just a “regular” sewing machine and was able to create clothes that looked great and were durable for my kids. Read on for tips and materials needed for getting a great finish on your knit fabric projects.
How to Hem Knit Fabric with a sewing machine –
You don’t need a fancy machine to get a great finish on your knit clothes. This photo shows stretch stitches that were all sewn on a sewing machine. The top is a twin needle with stretch thread in the bobbin. Then a zig-zag and finally the stretch stitch that is built into most machines. It looks like a little lightening bolt.
Here is the back of these stitched. The top stitch that was a twin needle on the front has a zig-zag on the back – this makes it stretchy. The other two stitches are also both forms of a zig-zag on the back. These stitched will create stretchy, durable hems and necklines for your clothes.
The twin need is my favorite in this group. It’s not at all hard either. Wind the bulky/woolly nylon thread on the bobbin as shown in the video. Then use regular thread in the needles. Stitch as normal. You can back-stitch to secure even with the twin needle on your machine.
Hemming with a Cover Stitch –
Just last year I started sewing with a cover stitch machine. If you plan on sewing a lot of clothes, I would highly recommend investing.. No one will know you made your clothes, the finishes look the same as if you bought your clothes, but are even better – because you made it! Let’s look at the hems the machine can create. The first one is a double coverstitch – three needles and a looper on the top and bottom. This top looper feature is relatively new to the home machine market, so your machine may not have this, but it’s great for sportwear, leggings and other hems where you want to reinforce the stitches. The three stitch finish is standard on cover stitch machines. For the two stitch you have have the needle right next to each other as show here, or take out the middle one for a wide double stitch. And finally, the chain stitch in a single stitch, but it’s still stretchy due to the looper on the back and you can use it to top-stitch necklines or bindings.
Here’s what the back of all the stitches looks like. They are all pretty similar, just more narrow as you have less threads. I’ve really enjoyed learning this new machines and giving the clothes I sew great finishes every time.
Projects to try with Knit Fabric –
Helpful Supplies for Sewing with Knit –
Please let me know if you still have questions about this technique… I’m happy to help.
Here are links to the products mentioned in the video {affiliate links}
Cheryl says
Hi Emily, Just watched your video on hemming knits – could you use a walking foot along with the double needle. I’ve only recently started sewing and I’m having trouble with my knits and someone said to use my walking foot?
Thank you
cheryl
Emily says
I think you could.. that would only help with the smoothness of the seams though, not make the thread stretchy..
Julie says
What a great tip, thanks so much, I’m going to be getting myself some stretchy thread asap. I’m pinning so I can come back and watch again once I have afore mentioned thread!
Bradleigh@WideMeadow says
Thanks for sharing this in Monday Morning Madness… I need all the sewing help I can get! Pinning!
Kristi Andres says
OK, that totally won me over to wooly nylon… I may have to get some today! 🙂
Emily says
haha!! I know, the stuff is amazing.. too bad they aren’t paying me for all the promo I do for them ;o)
Domenica says
Thanks for the video! a great tutorial ? I love the fact that a twin needle can give you such a great finish. I also like using the triple stitch on my machine when needing a stitch that allows for stretch in the fabric.
Lisa @ Fun Money Mom says
Whenever I see posts like this it makes me want to learn how to sew! Thanks for sharing your great tips at Share The Wealth Sunday! xoxo
Jennifer | The Deliberate Mom says
Very cool! I’ve always been a little “scared” of those double needles but I love the finish this gives. Definitely have to give it a try.
Thanks for sharing (and for linking up to the #SHINEbloghop).
Wishing you a lovely evening.
xoxo
Beth says
Thanks for the video! Do you use wooly nylon or regular thread in the twin needles?
Sam says
I notice you don’t back stitch at the beginning or end. Does this type of stitch lock itself? Is there any “danger” of it unraveling?
Emily says
I usually do backstitch overlap when I sew a real garment..
swayam says
This is fabulous Emily! LOVED the video… Thanks for joining us at #SaucySaturday. Pinned!!Do join us tomorrow! Xo..
kallie says
Thank you! I have a double needle and wooly nylon but have never used either! ?
Do you still just use a straight stitch? Wondering how it does the zig zag on the underside of the fabric.
Can’t wait to try this.
Emily says
Yes! I use a straight stitch on the top and the bobbin makes a zigzag with the double needle. You can also set a zig zag on top for a more sporty feel when you stitch.
Amber says
Hi, great video!! It will really help me hem my knits! I need to clear up one thing…the woolly nylon thread is in the bobbin but is the top thread (the one going through the double needles) just regular? It appears that way but I am unsure…
Amy Stephens says
Thank you for your site! It’s so helpful for a rookie like me. Since I don’t have any wooly nylon, and am in a hurry to finish my project, can I just use regular all-purpose thread with a double needle? How big of a deal is getting the wooly nylon?
Stacie Pinkston says
Thank you very much! I love your tutorials! They are so helpful. You are awesome! Keep doing what you are doing, it’s helping many.
Emily says
thanks!
April says
Your tutorial is SO helpful!! I’ve been making a bunch of knit pj pants for my family, & this was JUST what I needed to help!
I do have a question (a couple others asked but I didn’t see a reply to their comments) – is the wooly nylon also used as the top stitch as well (in both eyes of the double needle)? And if so, how were you able to wind the wooly nylon on the regular size spool?
Thank you again!
Emily says
hi! no I just use regular thread in the top {needle thread}
terri says
Oh well, got nothing from the video since it came up only as a postage stamp in the lower rt corner of my screen. Never expanded to full size.
Emily says
you can click the video to expand ;o)